‘The case of the Christmas wines….’

Why is everyone always in a panic for Christmas? You’d think that there was going to be a food shortage judging by the manic activity in the supermarkets. The pressure is on – the right presents and right food, Christmas treats, getting the dry-cleaning done (what?), car serviced, cards written, tree bought, gifts for kids teachers (ooops), parties to go to, house to clean, lawn to mow, wrapping paper, sticky tape, stuff for the kids stockings…. STOP THE WORLD I WANT TO GET OFF!….Burn out is looming, swiftly followed by a declaration of strike action, overeating and guilt. Help.

And then there’s the wine. Food is so much easier because there is less choice. You know you want a ham, and you probably know roughly what size you need, so your choice is narrowed down to just a few options. Even if you knew you wanted a Chardonnay and you knew how many bottles – choosing it from maybe 40 or 50 on the shelf is mind-boggling. And that’s just the Chardonnay.

Wine is for relaxing with – sharing with friends and family – enjoying over delicious meals. Buying a few bottles in the run up to the festive season can save on anxious, last minute decision -making and money as you often end up grabbing the more expensive bottles in the hope that they will be the best.

Here’s a suggestion – give yourself the opportunity to choose the wines at home, rather than in the supermarket environment. If possible, visit a decent wine shop and take advice from those in the know and stock up. Then when it comes time to select something to go with the turkey, you can just open the cupboard and select a bottle or two – nothing like being prepared to make for a less stressful time.

Ponder this. If you are hosting Christmas or even heading off to another family destination, it will be damn near impossible to find wines that everyone likes. You’re paying for it so get wine that you like. Just add a sprinkle of thought and you’ll be fine. And just throw in a few bottles of innocuous Pinot Gris for those who don’t like Sav but like Chard or don’t like Chard but like Sav not to mention those who will drink anything.

People talk about the 12 Days of Christmas – I’m going to talk about the 12 wines. And who knows, maybe they will be enjoyed over 12 hours (between six people that’s only a glass an hour…)!

1.            Bubbles Dry – Champagne if you wish and if the budget allows – my top recommendation is Pol Roger Brut NV. Stunning wine that is the preference of the wine industry glitterati the world over. Well, certainly in the world’s most dynamic wine market – the UK. Failing that, Methode Traditionnelle (made the same way as Champagne) will yield some goodies. Kiwi wines Nautilus Brut Cuvee, Lindaeur Special Reserve Blanc de Blancs (made only from Chardonnay), No.1 Cuvee (also 100% Chardonnay), Hunter’s Miru Miru, Daniel Le Brun are all mighty fine. You can also do something very festive by putting a drop (and only a drop) of Cassis (blackcurrant liqueur) in the bottom of the glass then filling with dry bubbles to make ‘Kir’. (By the way – half orange juice and half bubbles – the old ‘Buck’s Fizz’ is a waste of both the wine and the orange juice – if you must mix juice and alcohol, offer a meaty Bloody Mary.)

2.            A dry white wine. Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc (for Sav with a difference, try a Sancerre or Pouilly Fume from France’s Loire Valley – brilliantly flinty and mineral driven – ideal with seafood) or a more extrovert style from Marlborough. Other dry whites include Muscadet from the Nantes region of the Loire Valley – not that easy to find in NZ but a good ‘sur lie’ is worth the hunt and goes down a treat with oysters. Less expensive Burgundies are good too – made of Chardonnay but not too heavy or serious, try wines from the Maconnais in southern Burgundy – Macon Villages for example – great value at about $25NZ and available from top wine retailers such as Wine Direct, Regional Wines, Maison Vauron and the likes.

3.            Fuller bodied white wine. For them that want a white with the bird, a Viognier or more substantial Chardonnay is ideal. From New Zealand, try any from Villa Maria – particularly the amazing Keltern Chardonnay and Omahu Gravels Viognier. Weighty, powerful and expressive. Other outstanding Viogniers include Elephant Hill or Church Road from Hawke’s Bay, Millton and Coopers Creek from Gisborne while another fave Chardomnnay of mine is Mahi’s Twin Valleys from Marlborough.

4.            A medium white wine – a real crowd pleaser and very refreshing served nicely chilled. Go for a medium style Riesling – even one with slightly lower alcohol such as Marlborough’s Forrest ‘The Doctor’s’. Framingham Classic – another great Marlborough example. German Riesling is sublime even if you can’t understand the label. Talk to your local wine store about which ones to try – often great value and a terrific talking point – great for your wine cred.

5.            Rose. Why not? Perfect for quaffing on a warm day and very food-friendly (not with dessert – please). Great with nibbles – salami, olives and antipasto in general. Will usually cope with garlicky hummus, dips, chips and nuts and the most finicky of drinkers. For a serious style try Esk Valley Merlot Malbec or something from Spain or the south of France. For lighter more glugable ones, I enjoyed Wooing Tree’s Blondie and Wild Rock’s Vin Gris is another interesting proposition.  And if you want top notch pink Champagne you have to have (yes, have to have) Billecart Salmon Brut Rose (swoon).

6.            Red number 1. For them that want a red with the bird or the ham, I suggest a Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Grenache. A Burgundian Pinot Noir such as a Cotes de Beaunes or Cotes de Nuits would be wonderful, but then so would the ability to afford it. Closer to home options include recent award-winning 2010 wines Triple Bank Awatere, Pencarrow Martinborough, Spy Valley Marlborough, Rockburn Central Otago, Saint Clair Pioneer Block 22, Marlborough. Pinot is good with the turkey and ham as it has a firm tannic structure yet light, red fruit characters that won’t dominate the more delicate meat flavours. Beaujolais might be a bottle of Nouveau from times past or a Beaujolais Villages – generic or single village such as a delightful Fleurie or Morgan. For Grenache, try d’Arenberg ‘The Custodian’or Yalumba’s Bush Vine – both great Australian examples of this sweet, juicy and well-structured grape variety.

7.            Red number 2. A bigger more chewy variety for those enjoying red meat and who are not averse to an afternoon nap. Look for Aussie Shiraz or Cabernet – anything with the Penfolds name on it costing $18NZ and over.  Also look for Mojo, Ingoldby, Shingleback, Wolf Blass Gold Label. For home-grown Syrah – Hawke’s Bay stars Trinity Hill, Bilancia, Craggy Range, Esk Valley, Villa Maria all offer sumptuous Syrah to experience (yes, experience, not just drink). Other options for a full-bodied red include Argentinean Malbec, Chilean Cabernet or Merlot and French Bordeaux (as if there is any other) though you might want to be on good terms with the bank manager for the latter.

8.            Red number 3. Sparkling. Oh yes. Never has a finer match been made than with turkey and cranberry sauce plus all the chipolatas, bread sauce, roast veg, gravy and anything else you can cram on there, than with a glass or two of bottle-fermented Shiraz. The ultimate (in my honest opinion) is E&E Sparkling Shiraz but at about $80 a bottle – not cheap (but then neither should it be – it’s special). A cheaper option is Hardy’s Ooomoo Sparkling Shiraz. You get a similar effect but with less of a dent in the wallet. If you are feeding the masses then go for the Oomoo – if just a few close friends and family – splash out – you won’t regret it. Serve chilled.

9.            Bubbles – sweet. Don’t say ‘Eeeuuuuw!’! I defy you not to enjoy a light, polished Moscato with a bowl of fresh strawberries, pav or just about any other fresh fruit-based dessert. Try Brown Brothers Moscato – white or pink or any genuine Moscato d’Asti. Ridiculously cheap, low in alcohol and the perfect choice for Great Aunt Maude who will probably drink it from the minute she arrives till the minute she leaves. Serve very cold.

10.          Botrytis Riesling or Semillon. This is the stuff to go with any stone-fruit, citrus or orchard fruit desserts such as apricot, peach, pear, apple, lemon, orange etc and anything honeyed such as bandy snaps. It loves cheesecake, custard, crème caramel – anything rich but NOT chocolate. It is also THE perfect match with creamy blue cheese. try Forrest Botrytised Riesling (from Marlborough), De Bortoli Noble One (from Australia) or a Sauternes or Barsac from South-West France (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon blend, often with a little Muscadelle). Serve slightly chilled.

11.          Australian Liqueur Muscat. This is Christmas in a bottle. Or in a glass. Marvellous with Christmas Pud, Christmas cake and anything with the word Christmas in it (think presents, tree, Day etc etc). Richly sweet and seductive with a weighty, rich, mouth-coating texture and packed with mocha and spice, dark dried fruits, orange zest and warm, unctuous, syrupy deliciousness. Brilliant with chocolate and (dare I say) poured over good vanilla ice cream. This stuff provides an almost out of body experience. You have been warned. Serve at room temperature unless stiflingly hot, in which case chill for 30 minutes.

12. Fino sherry. Yes it is making a comeback – or so they keep saying, no doubt hoping for a self-fulfilling prophecy. Brilliant with nibbles and salty snacks on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day, when round two gets underway.

So, with temperatures running high and no one safe from random outbursts of festive frustration, at least you will have a case of wine to see you through. Happy Christmas!

A Perfect Pink

 

From Marlborough’s first family of fizz, No.1 Family Estate this pink Methode Traditionnelle is a first for proprietor and winemaker Daniel Le Brun. Made solely from Pinot Noir, picked early in the season to retain that all important acidity, it’s like a Christmas present containing all the goodies you’ve ever wanted in a sparkling rose. 

The elegantly-shaped bottle with its small but perfectly formed label is a graceful addition to the table while the wine itself is destined to contribute to a celebratory mood, regardless of the occasion.

Well-coloured with coppery pink hues, as the glass fills and the bubbles rush out, they form a fine, persistent bead. The nose reminds me of when I was an art student opening a new packet of cartridge paper – that wonderful fresh, clean smell adding to the anticipation of using the first page in the same way these aromas build anticipation for that first taste.

Toasted almonds, freshly poached rhubarb and cassis combine to give a significant and as it turns out, accurate indication of the flavours. Once on the palate, these are complemented by a suggestion of sweetness, yet balanced with an almost marmite (English marmite!) hint on the finish. Complex and rewarding with many a layer, this wine conveys both power and elegance in a clever combination that intrigues and leaves you wanting more.

Needless to say this wine comes highly recommended by me and has every chance of being part of my Christmas Day celebrations.  RRP about $40NZD

The new book is out!

Celebrating our savvy (from the Marlborough Express, 5 November 2011)

A toast: Renwick wine consultant Belinda Jackson, left, and Blenheim food writer Jan Bilton celebrate the publication of their second joint book.

‘Tis (nearly) the season to be merry, and a newly published book points to Marlborough as one of the best places to celebrate it.

Celebrate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc,by Renwick wine consultant Belinda Jackson and Blenheim food writer Jan Bilton, tells the sauvignon blanc story and how Marlborough became its first major production base in New Zealand.

The authors met at a Blenheim cafe this week to promote the 144-page publication and say it was born when they met for lunch at the Allan Scott Family Winemakers restaurant last year.

December 8 to be exact, Belinda says, and when asked what they ate that day she replies, without hesitation: a caesar salad for her, a goat cheese tart for Jan.

Basil-infused goat’s cheese and an asparagus caesar salad are among the 30 titles listed in the book’s recipe index. Each was designed to complement 60 different sauvignon blanc wines and the wineries they come from.

“Locals want to know more about their wine and what to cook with it,” says Belinda, who for 25 years has worked in Europe and New Zealand, buying, selling, marketing and making wine.

She describes sauvignon blanc as New Zealand’s flagship wine and says the books sets out to be educational and informative but also relaxed and easily accessible.

Visitors and tourists to Marlborough looking for souvenirs are likely markets, too, and the book will be stocked at several wineries’ cellar doors.

It was the support of wine companies that allowed the women to easily meet the book’s publication costs, but important ground work had to be done before any were approached.

Wanting to represent the sauvignon blanc wines produced in Marlborough’s three wine sub-regions and identifying foods that best complemented them involved a lengthy period of tastings and comparisons, says Jan.

“It was hard work,” she grins.

Although made from the same variety of grapes, sauvignon blanc wines vary according to soil, climate, vine age and vineyard practices. Conditions can vary remarkably in Marlborough’s three sub-regions – Wairau, Southern Valleys and Awatere Valley. Neither woman will say which sub-region’s wines they prefer but Belinda does identify sauvignon blanc with more mineral complexity and a sense of “the place” as her favourites.

“And I enjoy the wild wines,” she adds.

Made from wild yeasts, they have more complexity, more texture – and they make brilliant food wines, she explains.

Jan agrees, but says food she eats dictates the wine she likes.

Wines selected for the book dictated the recipes she created to serve with them.

“[The recipes] have to be simple,” Jan says.

“The book is quite small so the recipes need to fit on the page.

“And we want people to flick through and think: `Oh, I can do this.”

Ingredients easily sourced in Marlborough have been used, but making sure they were accessible to overseas pantries was important.

“And we did take into account what some of the producers wanted,” Jan says.

She drew the line, however, at one winemaker’s request to include a jellyfish recipe for its Hong Kong market.

Belinda had agreed.

“There’s none available in Blenheim, so we settled for prawns,” she says.

Celebrate Marlborough is the pair’s second joint book, following Marlborough on the Menu published three years ago.

The new publication can be purchased from local book stores and some cellar doors.

- The Marlborough Express

What I don’t want in my wine….

Those of us who pontificate about wine for a living (I wish), often talk about the great qualities of the wines we love, but don’t often talk about the bits we don’t like. And for good reason. If you only have X number of words afforded you for the weekly column, why waste it on the negative? However, after a Twitter discussion on the merits (or not as the case would seem) of NZ Chardonnay, I have decided to fritter a few words on the things I don’t like in my wines. Remember this is all about me – i.e. it is just my opinion – it is not a tried and tested, live or die by objective piece of writing.

Bubbles

I don’t like sugary, confected Methode Traditionelle. I don’t like warm bubbles (I also don’t like opening warm bubbles…).  I don’t like lots of gum-stinging, eye-watering acidity, or varietal bubbles that are not usually ‘au fait’ with CO2. I don’t like bubbles that I can’t get the cork out of and then when I relax my iron-like grip; comes flying out like a missile programmed for the furthest planet. Most of all? I don’t like corked bubbles. In fact I don’t like corks full stop.

Chardonnay

I don’t like sweetness in my Chardonnay, I don’t like sour, milky, babysick smells or (God forbid) flavours. I don’t like Chardonnays that leave splinters in my tongue, or taste like Pina Colada. Or pine come to think of it.  I don’t like soapy Chardonnay and I don’t like too much acid in there either. I don’t want short Chardonnay that leaves no impression (though no impression can be better than leaving a bad one). I don’t want a watery consistency. I don’t want butterscotch – If I did I’d grab a bag of them next time I’m shopping and I don’t like hints of botrytis. No it doesn’t add complexity.

Sauvignon Blanc

I don’t like body odour in my glass of Sauvignon Blanc, I don’t like aromas of last night’s vindaloo in it either. I don’t like raw oak that sticks out like the proverbial dog’s wotsits (oak in Sauvignon Blanc is a very fine art, only successfully executed by a few) and I don’t like dilute, thin, watery flavours (if you can call them ‘flavours’). I don’t like asparagus my in glass (though I love it on my plate) and you can keep your tinned peas (though fine if you happen to be in France enjoying ‘Petits Pois Bonne Femme).

Riesling

I don’t like botrytis in my ‘dry’ Riesling (but love it in fully-blown dessert wines). I don’t like hard, metallic flavours in there, or confected sweetness without a backbone of fresh acidity. Dilute Riesling is not nice, neither is high acid with no intensity of flavour. However as a rule of thumb, I am usually more easily pleased with a random Riesling than I am with a random Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

Pinot Gris

Where to start. I don’t like flabby, sweet Pinot Gris, I don’t like sugary, lolly water as an excuse for Pinot Gris.  I don’t like darkly coloured Pinot Gris – it worries me (though a tiny hint of pink can be ok of course). I don’t like neutral nothingness in my glass and I don’t like overwhelming peardrop or marzipan smells, or aromas of wet dog/sheep.

Pinot Noir

I don’t like overly youthful Pinot Noir with aromas reminiscent of carbonic maceration/strawberry-flavoured boiled sweets. I don’t like sharp, pointed, angular Pinot that is clearly not comfortable in its own skin. High tannin, high acid and low fruit will never make me (or anyone else) happy, while stewed, hot fruit and high alcohol won’t either.  I don’t like thin, stalky Pinot Noir and I don’t like sugar in my Pinot Noir, residual or other.  I don’t like cheap oak, bagged oak or any other in my Pinot unless it is in the form of French oak barrels. And no brettanomyces either thanks.

Cabernet Sauvignon

I don’t like unripe characters in my Cabernet – e.g. green beans, powdery  instant coffee, stalks. I don’t like so much menthol that I think I’ve accidentally opened the cough medicine instead. I don’t like tannin that takes a pickaxe to remove or sweetness that is cloyingly mouth-coating. I don’t like alcohol that makes my nasal hairs recoil in horror but equally I don’t like miscellaneous Cabernet that lacks distinct flavour, texture and structure.

Syrah/Shiraz

To quote Levi ‘big is good’ but all things need to be in proportion (he didn’t say that bit). I don’t like Shiraz with so much American oak I think I’m on a beach in Fiji supping juice from a coconut. I don’t like ‘new wave’, light-bodied Shiraz. If I wanted a light-bodied red I’d buy something else. I don’t like the look of pale coloured Shiraz….worrying. I don’t like confected sweetness in there, or the smell of my Grandmother’s simmering damson jam (though I did love that smell in her kitchen). I rarely like Syrah that pretends to be Shiraz and vice versa.

Reading this back I sound like a grumpy, vinously frustrated old bag. I’m not. Really I’m not. I love good wine, cheap wine, expensive wine and many in between. What I don’t like is apathetic wines that stand for nothing, or faulty wines, or those that are not true to origin and/or grape variety. See? I’m easy to please really!! I have always been a ‘cake and eat it’ type of person – yep, I want it all (unless it’s any of the above).

The first Marlborough Wine Show

Starting a new wine competition at a time when there are already more than you can shake a stick at, could well have been viewed as ridiculous – and by some it was. But if a show can offer an important point of difference and therefore add value – there is undoubtedly an opportunity for the industry to benefit.

Brand Marlborough and arguably brand Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has been and will continue to be a terrific selling point in today’s global wine markets – particularly in those that are still immature. For more dynamic markets, we need to feed the demand for more compelling stories in order to keep them intrigued.

While reinventing Marlborough or Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc would be throwing the baby out with the bathwater, chiselling down to the next level of the Marlborough story is not. It’s about embracing what we do, learning from it and expanding on it. That’s the platform that the Marlborough Wine Show wishes to provide. Sub-regions and style diversity add huge value to the Marlborough story and while they have always been part of the script, they have yet to be in the spotlight. This new wine show is switching on the spotlights.

Wine producers and their distributors can look forward to a time when the gate-keepers will list not just one or two Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs, but one or two from the Awatere, plus from the Wairau or Southern Valleys as well. More opportunities for more listings due to a compelling story. To accurately represent Marlborough to their client base, they will need more than just a couple of generics.

Conceived, owned an organised by an independent company and working from a clean slate, the Show can morph into whatever is required in order to add value and be relevant to Marlborough’s wine industry. With 424 entries in this first year from 44% of the region’s registered producers, it has got off to a very strong start.

Judging was carried out by vintage and sub-region for Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, with the older wines judged by all three panels. All the panels also looked at the ‘emerging styles’ Sauvignon Blanc. Aromatics were judged by vintage based on the level of rs. Again, the older wines were poured for all three judging panels.

Special glasses were used to showcase the wines based on their style – Spiegelau Burgundy glasses for the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, an aromatics glass for the aromatic varietals and flutes for the sparkling. This also added value for the judges whose feedback was very positive.

Finally, it’s not all about nepotism as one non-entering wine producer felt. Bringing outside judges including Ben Edwards, President of the Australian Sommeliers Association on board as a judge not only gave key players a more in-depth look at Marlborough, it also opened the event up for scrutiny.

The industry tastings after both days’ judging gave local winemakers the chance to benchmark wines with their peers. Following the tasting on the second day, all bottles not required during the judging process (though the Show only requests three bottles per entry) were auctioned off. Proceeds in the region of $4,500 will be returned to the Marlborough industry via a Charitable Trust set up by Wine Competition Ltd, specifically for this purpose. The company’s other event, the Spiegelau International Wine Competition raised in the region of $12,000 in June for the Trust – again, earmarked for industry development.

Dr John Forrest receiving the trophy for Champion Riesling 2009 and older from Margaret Cresswell of Wine Competition Ltd.

This article was written for Winepress, Marlborough’s official wine industry publication

Arbiters of good taste: Our stylish women of wine by Jo Burzynska (published in the NZ Herald, Wednesday 3 August 2011

Hobnobbing with the likes of Mick Jagger, organising dinners for Krug and Pol Roger and rooftop parties at members-only clubs in New York are just part of the job for three doyennes of the New Zealand wine industry

(From left) Bronwen Skuse, Rachael Carter and Belinda Jackson (Location: Barolo restaurant, The Langham, Auckland). Photo / Babiche Martens

Sipping wine in Miami next to Enrique Iglesias, partying at one of the oldest vineyards in Bordeaux or hosting dinners for a Champagne legend like Henri Krug, it’s all in a day’s work for some of the glamorous ladies behind the scenes in our wine industry. But look beneath the glitz, and they can be found working flat out, developing cutting-edge international wine labels, making sure their bottles are seen in all the right places around the globe or helping wineries put themselves on the world’s wine map.

Blundstone work boots, jeans and a polar fleece may be the attire most readily seen sashaying along the winery catwalks, but for the founder of the SOHO wine company, Rachael Carter, it’s more likely to be something along the lines of Tom Ford. Not only does the super-chic Carter take her personal styling cues from high fashion, it’s the inspiration behind her wine label as well.

“Tom Ford has been the inspiration behind its packaging and marketing, creating a brand that is contemporary, stylish and a little risque,” explains Carter.

“Tom Ford put the glamour back into fashion and I’d like to think SOHO has put the glamour into the wine industry.

“For me fashion is everything,” admits Carter, “clothes, furniture, music, movies… It’s an exciting and creative industry. I love taking an idea and a vision, and the fun is in the creating.”

However, Carter’s background is actually in wine. Her father owned a winery supply company, and Carter herself was at the helm of one of wine’s most revolutionary trends of recent years, as the owner of one of the country’s leading screwcap companies.

She sold that business in 2008 to start SOHO, which taps into the talents of seasoned winemakers across the country, while sourcing some of its grapes from her family vineyards.

“I had a great desire to get on the other side of the wine industry and start my own brand,” says Carter. “With my background I had access to the best winemakers in NZ as well as a great insight into wine branding. My dream was to create a wine company that was sexy, fun, quality focused and reflected the social network associated with wine, hence the name SOHO.”

Carter is no stranger to socialising. “In my heyday I was a bit of a party animal, she confesses.

“For 20-odd years I have frequented many of my customer’s bars and restaurants – relationships are key in this game. I guess the fact I’ve always been pretty social and outgoing is reflected in my work.”

Her love of rock ‘n’ roll has also been transmitted through Carter’s work, with SOHO’s latest release the Jagger Pinot Gris: “named after the soul man of rock, and someone who I have met and had a great night partying with back in the 90s,” Carter recalls.

Past work has seen her visit some of the world’s most revered wine regions.

“I’ve had some incredible experiences,” she acknowledges.

“Things like attending the most amazing wedding in one of the oldest vineyards in Bordeaux, running with the bulls in Pamplona and a convertible mustang wine tour of Napa.

It seems to me that people in the wine industry all over the world have this inner party animal and desire to live life to the full,” she observes.

“I’ve sat around a table where we were tasting bottles of wine that could have bought me a large Miu Miu handbag. As much as I love wine I’d definitely take the bag.”

Following the birth of her first child, Maren, last October, motherhood has put the brakes on the partying and travel.

“I’m a bit of a workaholic but I’m loving time with my gorgeous baby girl,” she says.

“Fortunately I can do a fair bit of work from home and our office is two minutes away from my house.”

“I’m always working on my phone which my baby hates, but every time I have a SOHO in my hand she attempts to grab it and tries to drink it: at eight months of age she’s definitely her Mum’s gal.”

Another stylish lady with strong ties to fashion and wine is Bronwyn Skuse. Now sales and export manager for Man O’ War Vineyards, before venturing into the professional world of wine, Skuse ran her own clothing label in Australia and can see how these two worlds can intersect.

“There is definitely an overlap between fashion and the wine industry,” thinks Skuse, “as fashion is ever evolving, so are people’s tastes in food and wine.”

It was a first date with a sommelier that set self-confessed foodie Skuse on her current career path. When asked what kind of chardonnay she wanted to drink, she realised that she had no idea of examples beyond those of her New Zealand homeland, which prompted her to enrol on a sommeliers course the very next week.

“I loved it so much that on its completion I went on to study for Wine & Spirit Education Trust qualifications,” Skuse recalls.

“A friend then asked me if I would look at bringing his boutique wine label in from New Zealand and I thought, ‘what the heck!’ Never would I have expected a few years later that I would be back in New Zealand working full time for a winery on Waiheke Island.”

Responsible for selling Man O’ War’s wines into Australia, the US and Canada, much of Skuse’s time is spent jetting across the continents.

“I travel a good seven months of the year. Although it’s tough, I see some incredible places, get to meet some incredible people and experience many different cuisines and cultures,” says Skuse, who only last month was rubbing shoulders with Iglesias.

“I suppose another plus is I get to shop in NYC and LA,” quips Skuse.

“My nieces and nephews get very spoilt, and I spoil myself occasionally too.”

However, she notes that it is hard work, seeking out compatible importers, distributors, restaurants or retailers across her markets.

“This job is very hands-on, there is no easy way around it other than time in market and hard work,” she states.

“The industry is very, very competitive: in the US each of the 51 states is like a different country with different rules and regulations to abide by.

“The long travel trips are tough on the old body,” acknowledges Skuse.

“Sometimes it’s daily flights, driving in cities you are not familiar with, on the wrong side of the road and the wrong side of the car and launching with a new team in a new region daily.”

Luckily Skuse loves meeting and mixing with people and has the personality and panache to enable her to make those all important first impressions.

“You are flying a flag for New Zealand, for Waiheke, for your winery – and first impressions stick.”

“I love people and meeting people from all walks of life: you need to be this way to do a job like mine,” observes Skuse.

“I love the fact that in wine we all may be so different but we all have one major thing in common: our love for wine. It brings people together.”

“Food, wine and travel would be the things I like to do most, so I suppose this must be my dream job.”

Despite all her exciting journeys through the world of wine, Skuse’s heart remains with Waiheke.

“Waiheke is truly unique, has some of the steepest vineyards in New Zealand, so many different soil profiles and microclimates that it is possible to grow many grape varieties really well there,” she enthuses.

“It’s pristine and picturesque, a true paradise – and there are many wineries making world class wine there.”

Skuse describes her career high to date as “sitting on the rooftop of a members-only exclusive club in NYC, surrounded by tables of people with ice buckets full of Man O’ War wine”.

“That felt good,” she says. “But actually, I get a buzz out of any new placement we get – retail or restaurants – as it means the brand is growing and I am doing my job.”

Belinda Jackson is another one of our smart women of wine who has experienced a liberal splash of glamour in her jobs in the industry to date.

After being given “a set of luggage, £100 and a one-way ticket to Bordeaux” by her father for her 19th birthday, she launched her career among the chateaux of the legendary French wine region.

Returning to Britain, she worked for a wine wholesaler, where she rose in the ranks to oversee the buying and marketing of 750,000 cases of wine from around the world. This saw her flying off on regular wine-buying trips to the likes of Spain, France, Italy, Germany and Chile.

After relocating to New Zealand in 1995, she took over the buying, ranging and promotion for the Liquorland chain, followed by a stint as European wine-buyer at Glengarry.

Then, 10 years ago she relaunched herself as a as an independent freelance wine consultant, a varied role which sees her assist wineries with their local and international branding and marketing efforts, copywriting, teaching about wine, working in wine evaluation and public relations, as well as running one of the country’s major wine competitions.

On top of her consultancy work, Jackson is also writing a book on wine and food and is excited by her work on the radio, hosting the One-Eyed Wine Show on Marlborough’s More FM as well as guesting on other programmes.

“I get to do all the things I like and get paid for it,” acknowledges Jackson.

“Well, not all of it – but then that’s what being passionate is about – some things you do because you want to contribute, to make a difference.”

Jackson juggles this hectic workload with being the mother of 10-year-old twin boys.

“I get great satisfaction from my role as a Mum and as a professional wino,” she laughs, “and somehow manage to successfully combine the two with running a house. I’m a solo mum so while it’s all very full-on, it is very rewarding.”

Though Jackson plays down the glamorous side of her roles, her work has seen her hosting some decidedly swanky soirees.

“I have held very special dinners for Henri Krug, and Christian Pol Roger, who remains a good friend,” she admits. “And I’ve worked with a number of our top chefs in creating menus to match wines for events such as these.”

“I’ve always felt very lucky and privileged to attend some of these wonderful events,” says Jackson.

“One of the highlights was attending a black-tie dinner in the caves under Champagne as a guest of Mercier, which was simply incredible with solo musicians playing on every corner as the little train took us deeper into the cellars, clutching footless, crystal glasses of vintage Champagne.”

Her travels have seen her sipping in many of the world’s top wine hot spots.

“I loved drinking Sancerre in a little cafe in Sancerre, at the top of the hill looking down, and loved climbing down into the dark, cold cellar at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard, Burgundy and tasting from barrel,” she recalls.

“I felt incredibly awed to be tasting [Loire sauvignon supremo] Didier Dagueneau’s outstanding pouilly fumé with him one-on-one and felt very honoured to arrive unannounced at Mount Pleasant in the Hunter Valley and be given an impromptu 10-year vertical tasting of their Elizabeth label,” Jackson remembers. “I have been very lucky.”

By Jo Burzynska

Brief tasting notes on the gold medal-winning wines from the Spiegelau International Wine Competition

Methode Traditionnelle

Daniel Le Brun Methode Traditionnelle NV

Golden in the glass with plenty of fine bubbles. Toasty nose with cashew nut, burnt butter and a touch of honey. Dry, toasty palate, good depth and refreshing acidity.

Morton Estate Blanc de Blanc Methode Traditionnelle 2000

Deep golden with marzipan aromas, toasty flavours and yeasty, fresh baked bread characters. Dry and almost savoury on the finish

Gewurztraminer             

Charles Wiffen Gewurztraminer 2009

Lifted, fresh, perfumed nose, typical of great Gewurztraminer. Palate is smooth and weighty yet dry but with layers of succulent, powerful flavours – lychee heaven

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 12 Lone Gum Gewurztraminer 2009

More subtle on the nose yet the palate is rich with a touch of sweetness balanced by a gentle acidity. Concentrated flavours of Turkish Delight.

Pinot Gris           

Red Tussock Pinot Gris 2009

Subtle nose, though fresh and with hints of candied peel. A dry wine with lovely weight and mouth-feel that highlights the ripe fruit, all wrapped in a rewarding texture

Riesling

Coopers Creek Marlborough Riesling 2010

Delicious nose of fresh limes making the mouth water! A dry wine but with excellent mineral characters alongside concentrated citrus fruits. A fresh acidity on the finish.

Stoneleigh Marlborough Riesling 2010

Floral hints on the nose lead to a dry wine with a lovely sherbety acidity. Flavours linger on and on while a touch of ‘wet stones’ comes through on the finish.

Forrest The Doctors Riesling 2010

Juicy, ripe citrus on the nose with a sweet impression on the palate though balanced with a pure, focused minerality and sweeping acidity

Georges Road Block Three Riesling 2010

Touch of smokiness on the nose with some lemon zest while the flavours are many and layered. Lots of sweet, ripe, succulent fruit embraced with a fine acidity to ensure this wine is well-balanced.

Glasnevin Classic Riesling 2008

Smoky hint of kerosene on the nose gives way to a sweet, rich first impression. Deeply concentrated with citrus oils, zest and a lingering finish.

Wither Hills Kerseley Riesling 2009

Lighter more mineral style nose with a touch of ‘wet stones’. A dry wine with a lime cordial flavour and firm, refreshing acidity

Sauvignon Blanc              

Durvillea Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Touch of green on the nose with a mellow, rounded appeal. More subtle than most making this ideal with subtle dishes. Some palate weight and juiciness with a mineral undertone.

Auntsfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Minerals and tropical fruit as a perfect pair on the nose then a welcome palate of fresh orchard fruits and citrus style acidity. Lovely texture and weight highlights great fruit and great winemaking.

Brightwater Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Pip fruit on the nose – piercing and clean. Flavours are intensely fresh with a green apple acidity and mouth-watering finish. Lively and keen – a brilliant aperitif style.

Wither Hills Rarangi Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Floral, almost roses on the nose with underlying fresh herbs. Palate is dry with a focused acidity and almost savoury, salty finish. Mineral traits combined with citrus tones linger.

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Snap Block Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Fresh, lifted and herbaceous nose with underlying tropical fruit, while the palate shows sweet, ripe fruit but with a dry, balanced finish. Juicy and fresh, lifted and vibrant.

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 2 Swamp Block Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Aromatic with inviting fresh aromas of citrus and orchard fruits with green apple style acidity and mineral characters. Dry, clean and rewarding.

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 3 43 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Sherbety, mineral nose also echoed on the palate alongside a herbaceous, green freshness and lovely acid structure. Well-balanced and fresh.

Lil Rippa Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Fresh lemon and lime aromas then a flinty, steely palate with further citrus and a linear acidity. Tangy with a touch of saline minerality on the finish.

Vidal Reserve Series Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Herbaceous and almost slightly floral hints amongst the lifted, fresh aromas. Polished, concentrated, zesty and packed with juicy flavours. A delicious, lip-smacking wine.

Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2010

Piercing, lifted green aromatics with fresh summer herbs on the nose. Palate is tangy with citrus fruit and a firm acid structure. Some richness and weight add to the texture leaving a satisfying impression

Viognier              

C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Viognier 2010

Mandarin peel, peach schnappes aromas – a rich, weighty, full-bodied wine with concentrated stone fruit characters and a fresh acidity. Mouth-coating and weighty, this is a powerful and excellent expression of NZ Viognier.

Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2009

Mineral tones, gentle white peach on the nose, weight builds on this powerful yet elegant wine. A more subtle interpretation of this enigmatic grape variety and one that rewards pairing with a number of light, white meat dishes.

Chardonnay

Cleaview Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2009

Mealy, oaty, toasty nose with ripe melon fruit characters. Lovely silky wine with fantastic balance – very fine style

Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2010

Mineral hints, toasty French oak and gentle, ripe fruit aromas. Elegant, more restrained, balanced style with succulent, juicy fruit on the finish.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2010

Warm, toasty cashew nut nose, medium-bodied, restrained fruit characters, lovely balance of acidity.

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cool Climate Chardonnay 2010

Attractive yet restrained, fresh, subtle elegant nose. Dry, reserved style, more mineral characters than fruit making it a classy offering.

Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumateo Vineyard Chardonnay 2010

Mealy, leesy, ripe, toasty fruit characters, then sweet, silky palate,more toasty but elegant oak and smooth texture.

Two Tracks Chardonnay 2009

Light, fresh and clean nose, citrus and warm oak combine to give a lighter style of Chardonnay. Easy to enjoy

Wild Rock Pania Chardonnay 2009

Creamy, rich, malo aromas, silky, seamless, mouth-coating texture. Lovely tender, ripe stonefruit

Villa Maria Reserve Barrique Fermented Gisborne Chardonnay 2010

Lifted, toasty French oak dominates the nose but succulent, ripe stonefruits alongside. Gorgeous creamy texture, supple and seamless wine

Other white varietals

Bimbadgen Signature Semillon 2007

Smoky, grassy, lemon zest, peppery green olive oil – a wonderful array of aromas. Richly intense with a weighty texture yet dry. Deliciously different from anything else – a real winner.

Sweet wines   

Charles Wiffen Late Harvest Riesling 2009

Intensely concentrated nose on this golden, sweet wine. Spiced oranges and barley sugar, this rich, opulent wine is weighty and smooth with a gorgeous, almost oily texture and mouth-coating finish.

Forrest Botrytised Riesling 2009

Concentrated citrus, apricot and mandarin on both the nose and palate with a fine, cleansing acidity to ensure this stunningly sweet wine doesn’t cloy. Orange marmalade on the finish. Outstanding.

Riverby Estate Noble Riesling 2009

Sun-warmed, ripe stonefruits exude from the glass while the sweet, honeyed flavours combine to give a rewarding dessert wine perfect with blue cheese.

Merlot 

Brancott Estate Reserve Merlot 2009

Warm, ripe plum fruit and fresh tobacco on the nose then a rich, layered palate with juicy fruit, underlined by supple tannins.

Church Road Cuve Merlot 2009

Mellow, ripe, spicy, worn leather – good concentration of sweet fruit balanced with a good tannnic structure. Smooth, rounded and rich – very rewarding.

Church Road Reserve Merlot Cabernet 2008

Sweet, smoky nose, concentrated, ripe dark fruits then a full-bodied palate with plenty of chewy tannin – delicious and seductive.

Wild Rock Gravel Pit Red Hawke’s Bay Merlot Malbec 2009

Rich, toasty, spicy oak – big fruit expression and a hint of cedarwood. Substantial wine with ripe, succulent fruit and solid tannins – delicious.

Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2010

Lifted, youthful, ripe berry fruit aromas, this super value wine is classic Merlot. Plums and a hint of spice with firm tannic structure yet imminently drinkable with any number of dishes.

Pinot Noir  

Davishon Pinot Noir 2010

Light cherries and berries on the nose with a fine palate structure offering delicate red fruits. A very elegant style with the subtlety and complexity of top quality Pinot Noir.

Brackens Order Pinot Noir 2009

Blend of sweet fruits and savoury undertones on the nose, then a raft of flavours, though predominantly cherry fruit – firm but ripe tannins.

Auntsfield Estate Pinot Noir 2009

Toasty plums and cherries, some savoury spice and a lovely rich palate. Well balanced with a fine acidity and good tannic structure.

Goldfields Pinot Noir 2009

Rich, Christmassy smelling wine. Toasty spices on the palate with silky tannins and fresh, black cherry fruit.

Hawkshead Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2009

Savoury, warm hay with ripe, plum-style fruit and fine-grained tannins. Succulent and with a lovely, firm texture.

Kahurangi Heaphy Series Nelson Pinot Noir 2010

Floral hints, some concentrated fruits which echo on the palate, particularly dark berries. Medium-bodied.

Triplebank Awatere Pinot Noir 2010

Lovely fruit-driven nose but with a spicy complexity. Silky texture yet firm tannins give power but make for a very approachable style with plenty of sweet, ripe cherry fruit.

Resurgence Pinot Noir 2010

Floral with fruit undertones, a lovely, pronounced nose. Palate is subtle yet complex with sweet ripe berry fruit balanced by a gentle acidity and soft, integrated tannins.

van Asch Pinot Noir 2008

Cherry berry nose, fresh, light to medium-bodied, elegant style of Pinot. Earthy undertones add to a complex finish

Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009

Hint of barnyard complexity balanced with ripe red fruits, a fine acidity and gentle tannins – good length of flavour.

Waipara Hills Equinox Waipara Pinot Noir 2009

Lifted, perfumed nose with floral and fruit characters – sweet, ripe characters with a backbone of fine tannins and fresh acidity.

Whitehaven Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010

Lighter, elegant nose of ripe, scented florals and raspberry fruit underneath. Lovely juiciness on the finish – balanced and enjoyable

Syrah/Shiraz  

Kahurangi Estate Syrah 2010

Floral, angelica aromas with black pepper – an elegant wine with some spicy, cedarwood flavours and an silky texture.

Weeping Sands Waihakek Island Syrah 2010

Mocha chocolate with cherry aromas, this sweet, ripe wine has a delicious array of flavours wrapped in a silky texture. Powerful and rewarding.

Mojo Shiraz 2010

Warm, intense, succulent fruit nose – this weighty wine is a stunner. Sweet, ripe, juicy fruit with integrated tannins and a long finish.

Shingleback D Block Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006

More mature nose, worn leather and spice while the fruit is supple and rounded. Silky yet powerful, complex yet drinkable.

Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Shiraz 2009

Deeply coloured, this has sweet aromas of ripe, juicy plums – almost plum jam. Concentrated  and rich with layers of sweet fruit and soft tannins.

Ingoldby Shiraz 2009

Purple and red boiled sweets aromas – inviting – and a strawberry jam character. Strawberries on the palate too – sweet yet balanced with ripe tannins.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz 2009

Concentrated, inviting blackberry aromas then a smooth, rounded palate. Supple yet firm tannins – a delicious wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon    

Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Pronounced, sweet, juicy nose of ripe black berry fruits. Concentrated, intense palate with firm tannins and sweet, impactful flavours – long.

Shingleback McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Blackcurrant, spice, touch of savoury then solid, intense flavours. Long and rewarding – firm oak on finish.

Cleaview Estate Old Olive Block 2009

Rich and concentrated on both the nose and palate, this seamless wine offers elegance and structure, embracing ripe dark plum and blackcurrant. Supple tannins on the finish. Stunning.

Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Opaque, intense and rewarding, this big expression of Coonawarra Cabernet has hints of menthol and warm, toasty oak together with chewy, ripe tannins. Big, concentrated fruit, packed with blackcurrants and spice.

Other red varietals 

Coopers Creek Limited Release Gisborne Malbec  2010

Beautiful dark cherry, almost purple red colour and a floral, almost violet character on the nose. Firm tannin structure with spicy dark fruits and intense mid-palate. A big, savoury style wine, not for the faint-hearted!

Farnese Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo DOC 2009

Mid garnet red, a lovely wine with a touch of violets on the nose while the palate gives layers of savoury hints together with cherry fruit flavours. Deliciously different and great value, this is easy to enjoy.

Telmo Rodriguez Dehesa Gago 2009

Deeply coloured, almost opaque at the core with a nose of savoury bacon, black olive tapenade and ripe, dark, plums. Palate is concentrated with plenty of black fruit flavours, chewy tannins and a savoury, marmitey finish. Gorgeous.

Fortified wines       

Williams and Humbert Aged 12 Years Pedro Ximenez

Richly sweet but with layers and layers of dried fruits, this ultra-concentrated wine is a real treat. Sumptuous and opulent, mouth-coating and powerful, leaving a lasting and wonderful impression.

Sandeman Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005

Sweet and tannic, yet rich and smooth, this classic Port is ready to be enjoyed. Dark cherries and mocha chocolate balanced with a fine acidity making this one more-ish after-dinner drink!

Trophy winners from the inaugural Spiegelau International Wine Competition

A buoyant audience including Sir George and Lady Fistonich, enjoyed a celebratory awards dinner on Friday night at The Langham, Auckland. 17 trophies from the 2011 Spiegelau International Wine Competition were announced, among them the coveted Champion Wine of the Show and Champion Winery.

Champion Wine of the Show was awarded to Villa Maria for their outstanding Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumatao Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, while Champion Winery was split between three producers. Commenting on the unusual result, Competition Director, Belinda Jackson explained, “These three were impossible to split based on the number of wines entered and awards received – so we decided to celebrate them all!”

Yesterday’s Sunday Star-Times carried a half-page advertisement highlighting the gold medal and trophy winners. Jackson commented, “By investing in this national exposure, we wanted to support the wine producers and promote an outstanding range of wines for people to enjoy.”

The list of trophies is as follows:

Champion Sparkling Wine, Daniel Le Brun Non Vintage contact Lion Nathan. Michael Taylor  (64) 9 357 0111 www.lion-nathan.com.au

Champion Chardonnay, Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumatao Vineyard Chardonnay 2010. Contact Villa Maria, Jane Morrison (64) 9 255 0660 www.villamaria.co.nz

Champion Sauvignon Blanc, Saint Clair Pioneer Block 3 43 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc 2010 contact Sabrina Ibbotson at Saint Clair (64) 3 577 9696 www.saintclair.co.nz

Champion Gewurztraminer, Charles Wiffen Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2009 contact Sandi or Charles Wiffen (64) 0-27-439 9720 www.charleswiffenwines.co.nz

Champion Pinot Gris, Red Tussock Pinot Gris 2009 contact Federal GEO, Aidan Dennis (64) 9-578 1823 www.federalgeo.co.nz

Champion Riesling, Glasnevin Classic Riesling 2008 contact Barry Johns at Fiddlers Green (64) 3-314 6979 www.fiddlersgreen.co.nz

Champion Viognier, C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Viognier 2010 contact Kate Radburnd, CJ Pask (64) 6-879 7906 www.cjpaskwinery.co.nz

Other White Varietal, Bimbadgen Signature Semillon 2007 contact Bimbadgen, Rebecca Poynter (61) 2 4998 4600 www.bimbadgen,com.au

Champion Sweet Wine, Forrest Botrytised Riesling 2009 contact John Forrest (64) 3 572 9084 www.forrest.co.nz

Champion Merlot, Church Road Cuve Merlot 2009 contact Pernod-Ricard, Dani Benjamin (64) 9 336 8444 www.churchroad.co.nz

Champion Pinot Noir, Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 Contact Villa Maria, Jane Morrison (64) 9 255 0660 www.villamaria.co.nz

Champion Syrah, Weeping Sands Waiheke Island Syrah 2010 contact Obsidian, Janet Spillman (64) 9-372 6100 www.obsidian.co.nz

Champion Cabernet Sauvignon, Cleaview Estate Old Olive Block 2009 contact Clearview Estate, Tim Turvey (64) 6-875 0150 www.clearviewestate.co.nz

Champion Other Red Varietal, Telmo Rodriguez Dehesa Gago 2009 contact Vintners New Zealand, Mark Young or Ric Little (64) 9-621 0210 www.vintnersnz.co.nz

Champion Fortified Wine, Williams and Humbert Aged 12 Years Pedro Ximenez contact importer Kahurangi Estate, Sam Day (64) 3-543 2980 www.kahurangiwine.com

 Champion Wine of the Show, Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumatao Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 Contact Villa Maria, Jane Morrison (64) 9 255 0660 www.villamaria.co.nz

Champion Winery of the Show first equal, Charles Wiffen Wines, Church Road, Saint Clair Family Estate

 A total of 1108 wines were entered, resulting in 17 trophies, 68 gold medals, 206 silver medals and 429 bronze medals. For more information on the competition, please see www.thespiegelauiwc.co.nz

Short term greed or necessary evil?

All this talk of grower’s greed and wine producer’s lust for supplying bulk wine overseas is really brassing me off – particularly comments from all these newborn wordsmiths who seem to have a personal agenda and an axe to grind (ok same thing) and don’t even put their name to their mutterings. Here’s the situation as I see it:

• General economic downturn combined with a large vintage in 2008 leaves excess wine in tanks. Those who had forecasts from their international distributors found them being cut back – but of course grapes already grown, wine already made.

• Options. Given that the tanks had to be emptied in order to contain the 2009 vintage, the stuff had to go somewhere. Were producers supposed to open the taps? While it was an option, it wasn’t an attractive one for obvious reasons.

• Action. Trim the 2009 vintage in line with the markets and to encourage quality over quantity (though there are those who argue that lower quantity does not necessarily equal higher quality). Difficult for those who just blithely carry on producing high yields in the belief that ‘she’ll be right’ and who really have little understanding of their market (don’t get me started on the number of producers who don’t even know their target audience, let alone understand being market-led). A bulk wine market appears on the scene, driven by overseas big boys and grocery chains demanding low prices once they hear NZ has a few drops too many. Faced with a choice of destroying it or selling it (and aiding cash flow, even if it isn’t as profitable) what would you do?

• 2009 vintage. Great quality and Marlborough managed a 1% reduction on the 2008 total yield, not bad considering the 100’s of hectares of new production that came on line. Still a challenge for those struggling with 2008 – and little upturn in market fortunes as consumers continue to keep their money in their wallets. In addition alcohol getting a bad rap as the be all and end all of every crime committed, not to mention teenage binge-drinking (the fact that wine is rarely responsible for these outcomes is ignored as the industry is tarred with the same brush regardless – I really can’t see Bro from Manurewa swigging down a bottle of Cloudy Bay Sav prior to slapping his Mrs and robbing the local dairy). Anyway – I digress.

• Bulk wine from NZ now has a hale and hearty position in the UK and elsewhere. As do hundreds of other wines from all over the world. Grocery multiples and others are delighted to offer NZ Sav Blanc at a cheap price to please their punters, all of whom are struggling to pay the bills but still want a  glass of their favourite wine. So do producers of New Zealand suddenly say to their customers ‘Sorry, can’t supply you any more as we need to cut back production in order to ensure we can retain our premium position’? This is unlikely, unless someone comes along with some subsidies – also unlikely (and hopefully unnecessary). Our ‘premium position’ is mostly in the lap of the retailers anyway – it is in their interest to sell the product for the highest price the market is willing to pay but sadly, the nature of grocery is that market share is the all important measuring stick and aspirational, previously unaffordable, premium products are suddenly discounted to drive much-needed additional foot-traffic.

• 2010 vintage. Nationally down 7% and down 5%in Marlborough – this is helping redress the balance – hopefully more of the bulk will be required to fulfil the bottled, labelled wines that leave our shore. Or at least reduce the number of 2^nd, 3^rd, 4^th, 5^th, 6^th labels out there. Sales are on the increase.

• 2011 vintage? Hopefully under control at a national level of about 265,000 tonnes, though there are murmurings of a 300,000 tonne haul. But hang on, with NZ wine sales tracking at 20% up year on year, we’ll need all that, even if not all of it is particularly profitable. And we can’t even sustain growth at that rate year in, year out. Plus – half of that increase is in packaged wines i.e. not bulk!  So…here’s my idealistic little thought…can’t we continue to add value to our premium labels while supplying some wine in bulk where there is clearly demand? I see a ‘cake and eat it’ opportunity though some of the high profile brands need to be careful. I (perhaps naively) hope they are selling at a consistent, relevant price and making a sustainable profit and not dropping their pants for the big boys wanting headline wines at ridiculous prices. Once on that downward spiral – very hard to come back as consumer expectation is lowered and they swap to another brand as fast as you can say ‘Oyster Bay’.

• Incidentally, ‘bag in box’ New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was alive and kicking when I was a wine buyer in the UK in the early 90’s. ‘Stowells of Chelsea’ did a roaring trade in 3litre and 10litre packs (the 10litre ones for draught ‘wine by the glass’ in pubs and bars). It was obviously shipped in bulked and ‘bagged’ at the other end. Was there an uproar about that (genuine question – I have no idea but I suspect not)?

• OK, so the supply of bulk wine is not as profitable as supplying a premium, packaged brand, but it does bring in some cash.

• Here’s an important point re pricing of NZ bottled wine. Those producers who understand branding and marketing will have kept their premium label out of the quagmire of price discounting. This would have been easy because they have woven their unique point of difference through every contact point their target audience has with the wine. They understand that value is not only price-based, but also about tapping into the lifestyle, aspirations and core values of the consumer. These are the wines that it is imperative we preserve the lofty retail price of – the fact NZ wine commands more money per bottle than any other (on average) is rewarding and should be protected.  Those with wines in this highly desirable position will hold their nerve and ride this thing through – because their wines will always be seen to offer value. The stuff that is causing all the drama is the wine that is shipped off in 26,000litre flexis and bottled off-shore. And for some producers they are doing both – bloody clever if you ask me. Preserving their own brand and ‘brand New Zealand’ at the top end but able to capitalise on demand at the other end.

• Short term gain for long term pain is just plain stupid, but with so many players all needing to stay afloat, sometimes there are few options. And with the banks playing the role of dictators now that all their jovial lending has suddenly backfired, many producers have little choice in their actions.

• Here’s the thing. All wine (and ideally anything at all) that is ‘made in New Zealand’ needs to be something we are proud of. Hopefully the Wine Export Council goes some way to ensure this (though perhaps the parameters there don’t go far enough). To the producers – you know if your wine is good or not. If you don’t – ditch the cellar palate and blinkers and taste, taste, taste with your team other wines at a similar price point or higher. Compare yours to wines you admire – what’s different, why? If it’s not good, or could be better, do something about it – step over your pride and help us all to lift the bar, increase the equity in the New Zealand wine brand and command the best price. This is your responsibility and your contribution to the industry that has served you so well for so long and ideally will continue to do so.

iPads as wine lists – here and here to stay so jump on board!

For many wine producers, branding and presentation has only been considered important in retail situations where the customer is perusing the shelves and looking for something to catch their eye. When buying wine in a restaurant it has traditionally been from a wine list, presented as a couple of pages or like a book, the vast majority of them not showing pictures of the wines on offer.

This is all changing and fast.  The arrival of the iPad and its swift take-up in restaurants means that at last, wine producers have another way of ‘talking’ to customers. As well as the wine name and in many circumstances and description of how the wine tastes and even how it was made, a bottle shot is likely to sway diners just as much when making their choice.

So are wine producers understanding this opportunity and taking it into account when developing or revamping their brands? And what are the key elements to consider? For a start, the competition isn’t so great. If you have a Sauvignon Blanc on a retail shelf, you could be one of 100’s, but on a wine list you are likely to be one of maybe five, or fifteen depending on the style of the restaurant. Your chances of shining are far greater. Perhaps elements to consider include readability of the label – less is often more. You only have a small thumbnail to attract the attention of the diner, which they can tap to read more details about a specific wine. A bit like the front label of a bottle on the shelf attracting someone enough to pick it up and read the back. Once that happens you’re halfway to making a sale. Another bonus is that if the wine has won a medal in a competition, the bottle shot can show this.

When developing the brand, the marketer needs to consider the target audience (ok, we all know this) and therefore the places they will likely come into contact with the wine. If the target audience is likely to enjoy high end restaurants then the wine needs to have high-end appeal – not only to the diner but to the restaurant sommelier or wine buyer as well. They need brands that add value to their business by demonstrating an empathy and understanding of what they do – endorsing their own brand positioning and unique selling point. A wine that is in every grocery store is unlikely to be of interest to this type of outlet, or their clientele, whereas a small production, highly rated and food-oriented wine will be. Another reason for this is the obvious price comparison – restaurants don’t like to offer well known grocery brands as they have to charge significantly more to cover costs and make a margin. Answering ’Why is this wine three times the price of what I can get in the supermarket for?’ is not fun.

Using an iPad, diners will be able to sort the list exactly as they want – for example Pinot Noirs in price order or Syrah listed alphabeticaly to search for a particular wine producer. Dry to sweet, light to full-bodied and by food style (providing the ideal aid to matching food and wine) are only a tap of the screen away.

Other bonuses will be the simplification of doing business. If the iPad app also reflects real time stock, then another common restaurant bugbear is avoided. Diners spending time considering which wine to order to then be told it is unavailable are generally displeased. And the option of a line drawn through the offending wine is never a good look. And imagine the ease of emailing restaurants with the latest tasting notes and bottle shots and the outlet being able to upload them straightaway – ideal for vintage changeovers.

The iPad and other similar devices are here to stay – and will only be further refined to give the diner the best experience possible while simplifying business for the bars and restaurants. Embrace it and jump on board – if you do you’ll be ahead of your competitors.

See an article in the Chicago Sun-Times by Caryn Rousseau as an example http://bit.ly/glc3Ql